Fashion in Paris*

In the 1910s and the 20s the master was Paul Poiret, the man who declared the corset undesirable and swathed his customers in Arabian Nights gear. Chanel first recognized a new direction for women after World War I and created soft, loose boyish-looking cuts as well as the famous "little black dress". Much to her annoyance, the exuberant personality of Elsa Schiaperelli soon stepped in with humor, a clever antidote during the 1930s depression. She was the one to introduce the padded shoulders that remained fashionable until World War II. When Dior stunned the post war world with his New Look, women were ready to return to a more feminine line and be extravagant with yards of cloth: this carried on throughout the 1950s.

Since then couturiers like Courrèges (1960s space-age), Saint-Laurent (1970s retro influences) and the latest to be admitted to the inner circle with a flamenco flounce, Christian Delacroix, have influenced and reflected the spirit of the time. Rule-breaking is part and parcel of Parisian fashion extremism. Waists are clinched or forgotten, skirt lengths short or long, trousers baggy or drainpipes, dresses clinging or bilowing.Certain young designers have led the way: Thierry Mugler (luxury Hollywood kitsch), Jean-Paul Gautier (outrageous humorous designs) and Claude Montana (for moody scince fiction heroines), while Alaïa was the man to bring back the feminine figure. Foreign designers such as Karl Lagerfeld, the Japanese contingent (from the precursor Kenzo to Miyake, Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo of Comme les garçons) have all gravitated to Paris, confirming the city's dual role as respected guardian and juvenile tearaway.

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